At Kalpakavadi, Saji Kurian has brought the irresistible essence of his South Indian origins to York. Located on Fossgate, this family-run restaurant is rooted in the food and rhythms of Kerala, a coastal state where great cooking is an important part of everyday life. The restaurant is run by owner Saji and his family, alongside a team of chefs trained in Kerala who have spent years cooking traditional South Indian food. “The focus has always been on authenticity,” Saji says. “Making sure every guest experiences a warm welcome and genuine Keralan cuisine”.
Saji’s story begins in Kerala, where he developed his passion for food. His culinary career began as a chief cook in the Merchant Navy fleet in India, spending years cooking across the seas and gaining the unique experience and skilled techniques he brought to the UK. After settling in York, Saji introduced the flavours of South India at his first restaurant Coconut Lagoon, and at the end of 2019 created Kalpakavadi to go deeper into the authentic regional cuisine of Kerala.
“In Kerala, food is deeply connected to family, culture and community,” Saji explains. “Meals are often shared with family and friends or at festivals and celebrations. Food is a way of bringing people together.”
This spirit of sharing and hospitality is something Saji brings to Kalpakavadi. Traditional Keralan meals often include a variety of dishes served together, balancing spices, textures and flavours, encouraging communal dining. “Over time we have refined the menu and introduced more traditional dishes,” Saji says. And since opening, the city has responded appreciatively; “York has been incredibly supportive,” he confirms. “The positive feedback from customers and the local community has helped us continue to grow.”
So, what exactly are these dishes that York is devouring? Saji explains; “Keralan food is known for its rich flavours, aromatic spices, and the use of fresh ingredients such as coconut, curry leaves, black pepper and tamarind. The dishes often combine warming spices with coconut-based sauces, creating flavours that are both bold and balanced.” The heritage and environment also play a key part in Keralan cuisine. The food reflects Kerala’s long history of trade and cultural influences, which has helped shape its distinctive style of cooking. Being a coastal region, seafood plays an important role too, all of which is showcased on two of Kalpakavadi’s standout dishes: Kottayam Beef Roast and Seabass Polichathu.
Saji enthusiastically describes them; “Kottayam Beef Roast is a classic Kerala dish, slow-cooked with roasted spices, curry leaves, onions and black pepper to create a rich, deeply flavoured dish that is very popular in the Kottayam region of Kerala.” He continues, “The Seabass Polichathu is another traditional favourite, where seabass is marinated with spices, wrapped and cooked in banana leaf. This method allows the fish to absorb all the flavours of the spices while keeping it tender and aromatic, making it a dish that reflects the coastal cooking traditions of Kerala.”
They’re dishes that reflect not just ingredients, but ways of cooking passed down over time – and at Kalpakavadi, Saji is spreading the joys of Kerala even further to the people of York.
Images – @kalpakavadi_york
